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Ingredients & formulation

Gattefossé launches a natural substitute for silicones in hair care products

The French manufacturer of cosmetic active ingredients has launches its first ever hair care ingredient at the in-cosmetics Latin America tradeshow, which was held on 19-20th June in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Gattefosé researchers have built on their knowledge in lipochemistry to develop an ingredient that mimics the beneficial conditioning and protective properties of hair sebum without the greasiness.

Sunflower and jojoba seeds

Central to the composition are high molecular weight esters found in the hull of the sunflower seed and in jojoba seeds. These esters are reacted with polyglycerol to improve spreading on the hair surface and to ensure a homogeneous film.

According to Gattefossé, tests show that hair regains hydrophobicity and is protected from humidity and frizz. The hair becomes easier to manage and is smooth to the touch, also style is maintained for longer.

We have been working for several years to find a composition that can substitute silicones in hair treatment products. We discovered that naturally occurring sebum really is the best conditioner for hair. With over-washing, thermal aggression and pollution, sebum cannot always play the role it is designed for and hair becomes damaged and exposed,” explains Vincent Hubiche, in charge of the applications’ development for the Gattefossé Group.

This is why the company has designed an ingredient with a chemical structure close to sebum. However, Definicire has slightly higher carbon chain lengths than sebum to optimize performance while avoiding greasiness.

The sensory properties of the hair after treatment were key in this development. We fine-tuned the composition to avoid oiliness in appearance or on touch. Our teams in Singapore and in Brazil tested the formulations to evaluate the effectiveness of the humidity barrier. We are very satisfied with the results,” added Hubiche.

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