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Ingredients & formulation

“Both the environment and populations must be respected when using Amazonian actives”, Aïna Queiroz, ID bio

ID bio, the French botanical active specialist in the cosmetics industry, intends to diversify and reinforce its offer. The company will take part in the next In-Cosmetics Brasil trade show, which will take place on September 9 and 10, 2014 in São Paulo. We have met new Research & Development Director Aïna Queiroz.

Aïna Queiroz, ID bio

Aïna Queiroz, ID bio

Brazil Beauty News - What are your ambitions in terms of new developments?

Aïna Queiroz - My first mission will be to expand the group’s offer in cosmetic actives. I have already worked in research on natural active substances, with new organic targets, and this perfectly matches what the ID bio company is willing to do as a plant extraction specialist: playing a greater role on the natural actives market, thanks to a more diversified offer, and plants with a rich history.

Our approach will consist in identifying a plant’s potential for skin applications according to its origin, traditional use and phytochemical content. We also intend to go further with our research on the use of plant-derived co-products.

Brazil Beauty News - Can you already talk about your next launches, the new developments you will present at the In-Cosmetics Brasil show in São Paulo?

Aïna Queiroz - Our presence at São Paulo’s In-Cosmetics will enable the ID bio group to reinforce its knowledge of this large market.

Some extracts have already been developed, and are based on annatto (“urucum” in Portuguese), a plant that South American Indians used as a sun protection thanks to its bixin, a molecule that is close to beta-carotene. The red-orange colour of its seeds explains why indigenous populations were sometimes called “red skins”.

Likewise, camu camu has caught our research teams’ attention for its strong content in vitamin C, one of the most important known to this day.

Furthermore, we will also make the most of our presence at the show (G09 stand) by presenting our botanical actives and titrated extracts of the TitrExtract® range, which have already seduced companies in other geographical areas.

Brazil Beauty News - Thanks to your professional background, you now possess excellent knowledge of the natural actives in South America, especially Amazonia. These are increasingly present and popular in cosmetic products. How do you view this trend?

Aïna Queiroz - The South-American biodiversity is so rich, and its ethnobotanical history so fascinating that the cosmetics industry just naturally turned towards it. Now, if this is great news for the economic boom in this geographical area, I am still sensitive to the action taken to limit the depletion of these precious resources and protect the populations that have traditionally been using these plants. Even though it may make a scientist or manufacturer’s approach more complex when attempting to decipher their mystery.

I definitely back up the use of Amazonian plants in our cosmetic products, provided a certain framework is respected. This is what a few South American countries, such as Peru, are gradually implementing to fight against the extinction of particular species and biopiracy.

Interview by Vincent Gallon

© 2014 - Brazil Beauty News - www.brazilbeautynews.com

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