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Markets & trends

Cosmetic ingredients industry evolves alongside multifunctional products

Products with multiple claims expand their reach among consumers with benefits that include convenience, more effective results, time and money savings.

Amanda Omodei, technical marketing coordinator at Focus Química

Amanda Omodei, technical marketing coordinator at Focus Química

Skin care products that combine cosmetic and functional benefits are expected to attract more customers around the globe. They should no longer be restricted to niche audiences and will soon expand to reach mass markets, according to UK-based marketing consultant Imogen Matthews’ talk during an international conference held by BRB Silicones earlier this year.

Although they were originally developed for the skin care segment, today there are multifunctional cosmetics in many different categories, including body care, hair care and nail care, which claim to combine up to 15 benefits in one single product.

The latest survey conducted by market research company Canadean (former Datamonitor Consumer) revealed that 41% of respondents believe that convenience is the biggest selling point of multifunctional cosmetics. Money savings came second, with 21% of respondents, followed by 17% who said time savings is the main benefit for them. More effective results are the main driver for 14% of people while 6% said multifunctional cosmetics help save space.

Amanda Omodei, technical marketing coordinator at raw material importer and distributor Focus Química, says there is real potential for this market to keep growing. "Multifunctional cosmetics have been well received by consumers as they offer increased convenience in daily care. These products not only combine multiple benefits but the results are also better than when used separately”.

The evolution of the ‘alphabet creams’ is a good example. In the last decade, the Brazilian market observed the popularity of BB creams, all-in-one products that act as a primer, moisturizer and sunscreen. Since then, the portfolio has grown to include CC creams (BB creams with the added benefit of color correcting to improve uneven skin tones), DD creams (which combine the benefits of BB and CC creams, while focusing on anti-aging) and EE creams (with protection against daytime damage including UV rays and pollutants that lead to dark spots). Bear in mind that some companies have already ventured into other letters of the alphabet and new product releases should keep the industry ticking.

DD Cream by Julep

DD Cream by Julep

Product development also puts higher demand on the cosmetic ingredients industry. Omodei highlights DUB DIS (Diisopropyl Sebacate) and DUB DIPA (Diisopropyl Adipate), both produced by French company Stéarinerie Dubois, as sunscreen solubilizers that can be used in multifunctional cosmetics. "The combination of these raw materials is suitable for formulations that soften the appearance of skin imperfections while preparing the skin for makeup,” she says.

Manufactured by Swiss company Mibelle Biochemistry, Perfection Peptide P7 fights free radicals and stimulates skin self-defense mechanisms against oxidative stress that can cause wrinkles. “It’s an excellent choice of active ingredient for DD creams”. Omodei also mentions Israeli-based Tagra’s range of microencapsulated pigments, which do not change the color of the product and are only released upon contact with the skin. “It is a good point of difference for multifunctional cosmetics such as L’Oréal’s Nude Magique BB Cream”.

In the hair care segment, Dutch company BRB Silicones has developed the BRB 5446 microemulsion, a hair conditioning agent that can be used in different hair care formulations. "This ingredient is especially suitable for transparent formulas that offer easy detangling, fast drying, heat protection, strength and elasticity with long-lasting effect, powerful revitalizing action to damaged hair, shine and anti-frizz benefits," says Omodei.

Amanda Mont’Alvão Veloso

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