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“We aim to put artificial intelligence at the service of perfumers’ creativity,” Calice Becker, Givaudan

Givaudan’s Perfume Division has just launched “Carto”, a new digital tool which supports perfumers with the creative process. Through this intuitive system which directly provides data on ingredients, the creator goes beyond the limits of his olfactory memory to open up new creative possibilities. The project was initiated by Calice Becker, perfumer and Director of Givaudan’s Perfumery School.

Calice Becker, Givaudan

Calice Becker, Givaudan

Premium Beauty News - Which principles is Carto based on?

Calice Becker - In perfumery, we do not really have direct access to all our ingredients, because everything is based on the perfumer’s memory. His memory of ingredients, of what they smell, of their accords… The problem is, memory works by getting rid of unused information to better focus on what’s new, which is why we forget about things. Fortunately! But since we forget about certain things, maybe we miss interesting parts. So, we had to find an answer to this frustration. We started by classifying odorous substances by family and by physical and chemical function, but also accords, etc. This huge work helped organize information based on physico-chemical, hedonic data, or descriptors, for every ingredient multi-labelled and studied by Givaudan for 30 years.

Premium Beauty News - But, since it includes the notion of artificial intelligence, does Carto not go beyond this?

Calice Becker - It does. This tool should be considered as a highly intuitive, easy-to-use tablet in which we recorded all the information and functionalities that will meet most of perfumers’ needs. Carto invites them to dare create new accords, thanks to a visual, playful approach on a touch screen, while performing instantaneous tests at a speed current sampling methods cannot reach. Noses will actually be able to carry out more tests and assess them to get faster results. They will no longer have to go through repetitive tasks, and their noses and brains will be freed from tedious activities.

Premium Beauty News - How can this benefit the perfumery world?

Calice Becker - The spectrum of new fragrances will certainly broaden. Over 150 years, we created six olfactory families, which is not much, compared to the number of ingredients. The advent of gourmand perfumes is the latest great invention in perfumery, and it was already 20 years ago. Carto can make suggestions. Combining science and technology will help those that long for new olfactory forms blossom in this creation process. The perfumer will be freed from any constraints; he will be able to focus on his creations.

Interview by Kristel Milet

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