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Ingredients & formulation

Symrise is enhancing its fragrant palette

In recent years, the fragrance house, Symrise, has put the emphasis on fine perfumery with the development of new ingredients and a strong focus on naturals. Building on new extraction tools, both efficient and sustainable, as well as on its new production sites in Madagascar and the Brazilian Amazon, the company is revisiting its portfolio of strategic ingredients with the aim of having 100% of them of natural origin in 2020. Another major event, the creation of new De Laire bases, made available to house perfumers.

Symrise's new De Laire bases

Symrise’s new De Laire bases

With the strategic objective of managing to grow faster than the market, while consolidating its sustainability, Symrise has implemented new channels for the sourcing of natural ingredients originating from sustainable agricultural cultivations and compliant with fair trade standards.

Biodiversity and new technologies

In Madagascar, the company has developed a fine quality of Vanille Bourbon absolute, where alternately leathery, animal and spicy hints reveal its sensual intensity. Symrise has also sourced from the "red island" a round and gourmand vanilla extract, which highlights the addictive sweetness of the pod. This unique terroir has also enabled to revisit other species: cinnamon, only produced from the bark of the tree, to offer more potency; a fine grade of ginger, pure and sparkling with lemony hints, but also ylang-ylang, lemon grass and geranium. To note also, a variety of pink pepper, based on the cultivation of the leaf.

The company also introduced the first ingredients extracted from its Brazilian factory and originating from Amazonian biodiversity. If flowers are not that common in the Amazon, fruits are on the contrary found everywhere and Symrise was able to make the very most of them in perfumery thanks to its SymTrap technology. Originating from aromatic processes and patented in 2008, this technique, which requires neither heat nor chemicals, rely instead on the recovery of fragrant molecules in aqueous solutions (rinse water, residual juice from extraction or distillation processes). Hence, many by-products are recycled to create new ingredients from cocoa, clove, orange or passion fruit (which until now only originated from pure synthesis).

New De Laire bases

Symrise also made quite a statement this year with the launch of new De Laire bases from novel captives. Originally designed at the turn of the 20th century to support emerging new synthetic molecules, the former bases created by the De Laire company have played a part in many masterpieces, like the Mousse de Saxe for Molinard’s Habanita. The "De Laire" project has remained unchanged: create new qualitative bases to structure compositions.

Among these novelties, the Poivre Pique DL base, built around Belanis, a captive with aniseed notes that bypasses IFRA restrictions on anethole. A spicy and pungent bouquet combining at once freshness and potency. Another flagship product, Tabac Bourbon DL, which reveals tobacco in an addictive and intoxicating way. The almond-like roundness of Tonkalactone, the sensuality of Vanille Bourbon absolute and the spiciness of cinnamon mingle with the dried leaf side of the Tabanone captive, the whole of it shrouded in a dash of liquor. Tubéliane DL puts forward Lilybelle with its hints of muguet, (but without its lyral and lilial molecules in the IFRA cross-hairs). This captive imparts luminous freshness to a former base, tubériane that gave pride of place to a tuberose with a carnal inspiration. Finally, the Noir Prunol DL, supports the roundness of the iconic plum note, preserved in the chocolate accents of the Tiramisone captive, the whole of it enhanced by a dark and spicy veil.

With such projects, no doubt we will be hearing more about theSymrise fragrance house.

Sophie Normand

© 2018 - Brazil Beauty News -

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