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Packaging & design

Perfume packaging keeps getting greener!

With its multiple ecodesign innovations, the 2019 edition of the Luxe Pack Monaco show ended with a very green outcome. Obviously, packaging suppliers in the luxury sector do their best to develop a much more concrete and comprehensive alternative offering. And perfumes are no exception to this global trend, as packaging is getting greener from all standpoints.

Recycled glass and unscrewable pumps

Most suppliers now use recycled glass, although there is an ongoing debate about the PCR/PIR ratio [1] and the recycled glass percentage in a bottle significantly varies according to the different calculation methods used. To be continued…

Standard lines based on lightweight glass are getting more popular. As a result, Ecoline by Bormioli Luigi and Epure by Pochet have been completed with new sizes to adapt to market demand. The Verdi model by Coverpla was actually based on the Ecoline lightweight bottles to provide an ecodesigned answer to niche brands’ expectations.

To meet the demand for packaging reuse and better recyclability, separable pumps and screw necks are making a most remarked comeback, as can be seen with the new CARA range by Verescence. These rectangular or round bottles are available in 50 ml and 100 ml sizes.

Ultimately, to support companies with these efforts, Aptar now offers a screwable-unscrewable version of the La Petite pump. And this year, Silgan Dispensing System will release the screwable version of the Melodie Pirouette screw pump launched in 2017.

Ecodesigned caps

Of course, the environmental concern is not limited to the use of glass. Caps are also getting greener, in particular at Quadpack, with a collection made of cork scraps. The additional advantage of these caps is that they do not require any plastic insert inside. They are directly placed on the tip of the bottle pump.

As for Texen, they chose a removable tassel for Le Beau et La Belle by Jean-Paul Gaultier. Located between the push button and the ring, it guarantees tamper resistance and blocks the opening to avoid the use of any cap, in the case of Jean-Paul Gaultier perfumes.

Albéa worked in collaboration with ERPRO Factory, leader on the serial additive manufacturing segment, to showcase various models of 3D-printed caps for the first time. Other than the creativity and customization offered by this technology, the raw material used is biosourced: it is derived from castor oil.

Lastly, Surlyn specialist Dow unveiled the very first range of caps based on recycled Surlyn. Developed in partnership with Premi, these caps are made with 40% Surlyn derived from manufacturing post-industrial scraps. The scraps are collected, crushed, and integrated to a new production process.

New generation decorations

Bormioli Luigi launched new lacquering and finishing models with material or coloured effects, in particular to go with bottles based on recycled glass and conceal colour and transparency flaws inherent to the quality of the material.

And for an even more comprehensive green proposal, Stoelzle Masnières put the spotlight on Quali Glass Coat, an environmentally friendly lacquering technique which reduces CO2 emissions by 77%, compared to standard hydro-marking.

Sleeve is yet another booming alternative for sophisticated, even metallized decorative effects. Directly placed on the bottle without any adhesive, the sleeve can be easily separated from it for recycling. As a result, the bottle can get opaque, while still being recyclable, contrary to a coloured bottle.

G. Pivaudran, an expert in aluminium components for perfumes and cosmetics, is considering using recycled aluminium, which is more eco-friendly and cheaper.

Even Zamak, an alloy widely used in perfumes, might see its impact reduced. Metapack has just conducted a study which validates the possibility of recycling this alloy of zinc, aluminium, magnesium and copper over and over.

Beyond sustainability, Wheaton presented two very interesting technical innovations in terms of customization. The Brazilian glassmaker showcased Photochromatic Spray, a new coating which reacts to UV light and makes it possible to write on bottles with an adequate light pencil.

Wheaton also developed the Perfumed Screen, screen printing involving perfumed ink to turn packaging into an olfactory communication carrier. Why not get rid of testers and samples, since the bottle enables to discover the product?

Cunning, entertaining samples

As far as samples are concerned, Arcade Beauty has been working on different options: lightened materials, aluminium-free single-material bags, thermoformed casing with 50% PCR…

Two new entertaining products should also be mentioned: powder compact-shaped samples with a sieve to discover a fragrance soaked in perfumed balls, and ephemeral tattoos made with perfumed ink developed by Amkiri. Users apply the perfumed ink on a stencil to distil the fragrance on the skin for 24h.

Last, but not least on the sampling market, ID Scent unveiled the new, 100% recyclable Scent Touch gesture exclusively made of paper. Scent Touch uses the perfuming gesture of a bottle with a rod soaked using the ID Scent technology and inserted in a cardboard case. The Touch is directly applied on the skin to discover the main fragrance notes. This model is adapted to retail, press ads, and e-sampling.

New gestures

To change from sprays, Texen created a pencil-shaped applicator for Angel, Alien, and Aura by Mugler. With its capacity of 8 ml, it offers an on-the-go application in just one click to deliver the right dose on the area to be perfumed.

The perfumed bracelet unwinder developed by Metapack and Neyret for Dyptique is extremely original in that it unties a string with a removable clasp to be worn like a bracelet, and which can diffuse a perfumed trail for a week. Users can then repeat the operation. One unwinder can create about thirty bracelets.

Metapack has also developed refillable concrete sticks made of Zamak for an on-the-go, renewable solution for solid perfumes.

A design innovation

For his first perfume line, Julien Dossena, Paco Rabanne’s Artistic Director, breaks the codes by replacing the traditional glass bottle with a flexible bag based on a metallized synthetic material developed by TNT Manufacturing and Promolib. According to the manufacturer, all the pack components can be recycled.

This year, the Luxe Pack show confirmed suppliers’ commitment for comprehensive eco-friendly alternatives. It is now up to luxury brands to adopt these ideas and solutions!

Kristel Milet

Footnotes

[1Post-Consumer Recycled (PCR) and Post-Industrial Recycled (PIR)

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