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Emmanuelle Bassmann

Is Brazil the new Korea for hair?

International Beauty Fair, South America’s largest trade beauty show, took place on September 08-11, 2018 in Sao Paolo, Brazil. Here is a short overview on the main trends that emerged during the event.

Brazil has always been renowned for being innovative in the beauty sector. Historically, the beauty industry in Brazil accelerates two to three times faster than the national economy. Being the 5th most populated country in the world and with the median age of the Brazilian population at 31.3 years, they have a large, very young population. Since the economic crash which brought about a recession in 2015, the country’s GDP suffered two consecutive contractions in 2015 & 2016. 2017 brought the first GDP growth in 3 years and it continued to rise in the first quarter of 2018. Since the crash private consumption has expanded 2.8% annually, and more than half of Brazilian population has been classed in the ranks of middle class. Still, as a result of the country’s economic downturn, an increasing number of consumers are abandoning higher end brands in search of more affordable options. Personal Care is one of the few categories in which Brazilians are still ‘trading up’.

The Brazilian Beauty & Personal Care market was worth 32.1billion in 2017 with a projection of 33.5 billion of sales in 2018. It is currently the world’s 4th largest beauty market. Beauty is an integral part of daily routine, it is not unusual to take 2-3 showers a day, with consumers using on average 6-7 different brands of hair care in one year. More than 50% of consumers use more than 4 products in their hair every day. Eventually, let’s note that the Brazilian population has one of the most diverse hair profiles in the world, containing every hair type imaginable.

1.Ethnically Diverse

As illustrated above, there’s huge diversity in hair types, with a large percentage of the population having what is classed as ethnic hair (curls, coils, afro). Despite all of the variety, consumers still want the same things from their hair products: Effective care for healthy looking, beautiful hair.

[en Salon Line: #Tôdecacho Linha Vinagre de Maçã, Launched in September 2018, (...)

[en Salon Line: #Tôdecacho Linha Vinagre de Maçã, Launched in September 2018, The range includes a combing cream, curl activator and hair jelly.

This is a complete vegan line of styling products with apple vinegar specific for curly/ethnic hair. For curly hair types 5 to 8 (as per the above illustration) this line seals cuticles, reconstructs, intensifies hair shine, controls frizz all while adding definition and hydration. Three products that can be mixed together for different effects to suit the type of curl! You can mix two or all three according to the desired texture and can be used at no/low poo techniques.

2.Curl Love

For the past 18 years Brazilian consumers have been embracing different beauty ideals, not wanting to all look the same, with cookie cutter processed hair that is packed with chemicals. Has such, products for transitioning (the process of going from chemically relaxed hair back to its natural curl) started popping up only as recently as 2016. Millennials are following the global trend of self-acceptance and love by embracing their natural textures.

Yamá Cosméticos: Pó Descolorante Cabelos Cacheados- Launched in September (...)

Yamá Cosméticos: Pó Descolorante Cabelos Cacheados- Launched in September 2018

This nutrition line for curly, ethnic or during transition hair has antioxidants, anti-ageing action, and is growth stimulant, helping to redefine curls and keep them looking naturally defined for longer. The products can be used in Low Poo and Co-Wash techniques. It can also be used by anyone who has chemically treated hair. With avocado oil proteins, omega 3, linoleic acid, amino acids, minerals and vitamins A, B, C, D and E. The range includes a Low-Poo Curl Shampoo, Curl Conditioner, Curl Masque, Curl Activator, Curl Styling Jelly, Curl Hydrator and Curl Moisturising Oil.

3.Blonde Obsession

European Beauty Ideals are still highly coveted. Blonde is quintessentially European. The Brazilian population tend to have warmer and deeper skin tones and Blonde hair is complimentary to their skin and also helps to soften their features. 70 % of Brazilian women have blonde hair but only less than 20% of these are natural blondes. Curl caring colour is a huge demand for the platinum lovers!

Yamá Cosméticos: Pó Descolorante Cabelos Cacheados- Launched in September (...)

Yamá Cosméticos: Pó Descolorante Cabelos Cacheados- Launched in September 2018

This is the first bleaching powder developed for curly/ethnic hair, which redensifies the hair fiber and reduces frizz. Differently from other bleaching powders, it does not disrupt/unweave the definition of curls nor it increases frizz so it is indicated for curly, coily, ethnic hair type 5 to 8 on the above illustration. It treats the damage of hair fiber, filling porous areas, making hair fiber denser and healthier looking.

4.Natural & Conscious Beauty

Brazilians are in general adopting a more natural posture towards their hair care routines. Reducing the amount of chemical procedures and using products without harsh chemicals is a huge trend. However, they never compromise on performance for the sake of going natural. These products are mindfully created and produced without any proven or suspected toxic ingredients. This includes ethically sourced ingredients and are made with the health of our bodies and the environment in mind.

Inoar: Line Afro Vegan, Launched in September 2018

Inoar: Line Afro Vegan, Launched in September 2018

Moisturising line with antibacterial and antioxidant properties, 100% vegan, natural products which seal the cuticle, adding shine, nourish, hydrate, replenish nutrients and stimulate growth for wavy, curly, coily, ethnic hair. With shea butter, castor oil, vitamin E, minerals, all ingredients are from botanical origin. In the range there is a Shampoo, Conditioner, Thermo-Active Leave-In Treatment, Hydrating Oil, Curl Activator and Masque. The Inoar brand is also part of PETA’s list of "cruelty free" companies.

5.Smoothing & Straight Hair

Straight hair is a beauty standard still being chased. Because of the racial mix in Brazil and resulting texture, anti-frizz & smoothing are important. Women will carry anti frizz & smoothing products in their bag to top up during the day. The country where the Brazilian blow dry was founded has plenty of addicts to the service. Their hair needs recovery whether or not they are still having it done. Going from having straightening procedures in the salon to safe home alternatives is a growing trend, not only due to economic reasons but also as they don’t last as long, they offer the option of less commitment.

Salon Line: Meu Liso Line Mel Pós-Progressiva #progressivado - Launched in (...)

Salon Line: Meu Liso Line Mel Pós-Progressiva #progressivado - Launched in September 2018

This Shampoo and Conditioner range is indicated for hair types 1 and 2 from the above chart, ideal for hair that has been straightened by treatment. The shampoo cleanses the scalp without depleting the chemistry of the straightening treatment in the strands and the conditioner leaves hair even smoother (prolongs the smooth effect of the applied chemistry in the salon), hydrated and without frizz. Formulated with honey, silk protein, ceramides and keratin, it’s paraben free.

6.Fun Packaging

Colourful & Eye Catching seems to be the go to for most hair care brands. With brands like Kanechom launching products with new colourful and humorous packaging, following other famous brands (like Salon Line, Donna and Lola, which was the first to launch its products in fun and bright packaging), this is clearly a growing and popular trend.

Kanechom: Máscara Condicionante - Launched in September 2018

Kanechom: Máscara Condicionante - Launched in September 2018

The brand released 5 Conditioning Masques in new, bright, colourful and fun packaging! The products are a Corn Starch Smoother Masque to reduce volume and frizz, with a complex of amino acids and d-panthenol, a Fainting Hair Masque for Softness & Instant Glow and super hydration, with collagen and d-panthenol, an Avocado Extra-Vitamin Masque for hydration and restoration, it also promotes growth, a Moisture and perfect curls Masque with coconut oil & chocolate and a Banana & Bubblegum Masque for mega-nutrition.

7.Super Detailed Hair Routines

With Brazilian women focusing so much of their beauty routine on their hair, it’s little wonder that so many brands are now launching products that can be used in the nighttime as well as in the morning or specialized programs that work on a weekly schedule. Brazilian women on average use between 3-5 products each to care for their hair at any one time. A nightly hair routine is not uncommon and becoming increasingly popular.

Salon Line: S.O.S Cachos Line Super Óleos Nutritivo Óleo-creme Umectação - (...)

Salon Line: S.O.S Cachos Line Super Óleos Nutritivo Óleo-creme Umectação - Launched in September 2018

Multipurpose oil that can be used to day or night to moisturise and boost the effects of any masque. A blend for daily use on dry, damaged and malnourished curly, very curly or kinky hair it’s a detangling cream with vegetable oil and UV filter. Designed for deep treatment, super nutrition, anti-frizz action and anti-dryness. Keeps the hair hydrated and malleable. With 12 oils, coconut, argan, shea, macadamia, olive, in addition to other seeds, herbs and fruits, it’s also paraben free. Ultra nourishing, it acts deep in the hair fibre to repair vitality, replenish nutrients and revitalise shine while adding luminosity. During the day it will act as UV protection and detangler, keeping hair soft and shiny. At nighttime it will act as deep treatment to hydrate and nourish the hair and scalp. As a booster it will enhance the properties of the masque when you add a few drops of the Cream-Oil to it.

Nutrihair: Cronograma Capilar HNR - Launched in September 2018

Nutrihair: Cronograma Capilar HNR - Launched in September 2018

The capillary schedule or chronogram is a systematized way of taking care of hair following a schedule of treatment divided into three stages:

- Hydration: step that restores water from hair;
- Nutrition: step that restores oils from hair;
- Reconstruction: step that restores the keratin of hair.

The chronogram steps should be done separately (never on the same day) respecting the minimum interval of 48 hours between each one. The schedule can be done on any type of hair. There will be different programs for different hair types, ie, normal hair will have a schedule with more focus on hydration & nutrition whilst very damaged hair will have a schedule more focused on nutrition & reconstruction.

The HNR Hydration Chronogram replaces lost water, essential oils and minerals, leaving the hair predisposed to nutrition or reconstruction. The HNR Nutrition Chronogram restores lost lipids and essential oils and the HNR Reconstruction Chronogram replenishes capillary mass lost by daily aggressions: sun, wind, pollution and chemicals, mainly alkaline processes, that harm the arrangement of the cuticles and damage the hair and it treats brittle, split-ends hair.

8. Detox & Scalp Care

The climate and the high levels of pollution mean most Brazilians suffer from oily roots and hair as well as other types of scalp conditions. Not only does their hair and scalp require deep cleansing but also protection from these irritants to maintain their health. Treating hair is no longer enough. Many brands are launching products that also treat the scalp. Either by detoxing or nourishing and stimulating hair growth. Anti-pollution and detoxing treatments are increasing in popularity.

Mezzo Dermocosméticos: Tricologhy Shampoo Anticaspa - Launched in September (...)

Mezzo Dermocosméticos: Tricologhy Shampoo Anticaspa - Launched in September 2018

Products that rebalance the microbiotic flora of the scalp are beginning to pop up in Brazil. This anti-dandruff shampoo preserves the scalps natural defenses. Renews scalp cells, softens irritation, reduces sensitivity, itching and flakes. With Defacralp ™ technology which acts on the different causes of dandruff. Balances the scalps immuno-inflammatory response. It’s gentle and does not damage hair, effectively reducing hair loss. It has a 5 free concept: Free of parabens, salt, colour, preservatives and alcohol.

9.Hybrid Haircare

Multi-function products are all the rage! Hybrids are taking over the beauty industry in all areas, and hair is no exception. The time consuming beauty regimes of Brazilian women combined with the economic crash has led to a demand for products that do more, in less time & for less money. Since the market is so ahead in hybrids within a category, more interesting cross category hybrids are now appearing in the market.

Salon Opus: Sérum Água Micelar - Launched in July 2018

Salon Opus: Sérum Água Micelar - Launched in July 2018

This serum is multifunctional. It can be applied directly on the scalp for cleaning and to stimulate circulation, can be mixed to the masque to enhance its effectiveness and can also be used to cleanse the face. This hybrid is crossing the barrier between haircare and skincare. Gentle cleansing of impurities, waste and pollutants from scalp and hair, leaving shiny and soft without drying it out. With Polluout®, a combination of polysaccharides, green tea, panthenol and xylitol with antioxidant and protective action, which reduces the deposit of pollutants and rebalances the scalp and together form an anti-pollution barrier.

10.Long Hair

Healthy, long, strong, shiny hair is ultimate perfection according to Brazilian beauty ideals. Repair, Recovery, Protection, Growth & Scalp Care are huge concerns when caring for longer hair. Many brands dedicate new lines to care for and recover hair length, aid in regrowth and maintain length healthy condition.

Glatten Professional: Linha 12 Ervas Força Natural - Launched in September (...)

Glatten Professional: Linha 12 Ervas Força Natural - Launched in September 2018

Botanical line designed for post chemical processes hair with phytotherapeutic shampoo and masque to purify, moisturize and accelerate hair growth. For hair that has gone through chemical processes like bleaching and progressive brush (Brazilian Blow dry). With horsetail, mint, rosemary, aloe vera, arnica, watercress, marigold, bamboo shoot, chamomile, witch hazel, Brazilian Peppertree and barbatimão (Stryphnodendron adstringens).

Conclusion:

- Caucasian-like hair is still highly desired in Brazil; women will go to a lot of trouble to have hair that is long, smooth, shiny and soft. Smoothing and shine are both getting faster and more multifunctional. You repair & protect whilst smoothing with a quick and easy product. Your shine product also gives you pollution protection as well as UV filter. Glow/highlighter for the hair along with shine will be something we will see more of too.

- Textured hair is now coming into its own with women embracing and learning to love their natural texture. Transitioning & Curl hair types are being better catered to on the Brazilian market. Mixing with intensifiers, cumulative results and pre-shampoo treatments are more new concepts that are coming to the transitioning & curls market.

- The blonde obsession is real and not only is toning becoming more instant with one product instead of a care range, it is also becoming more multi functional. Brazil are quick to introduce color products specifically for curls that don’t further dry out or interrupt the natural curl pattern. Bleaching & toning products specific for curly hair are becoming increasingly popular.

- Even with the growing of the multi-use, one-product-does-it-all trend, Brazilian women still like to dedicate a good deal of time on their hair. Highly detailed, scheduled and nighttime hair recovery routines are very much sought out and becoming hugely popular.

- Brazil is very good with its hybrid beauty but now those hybrids are becoming more sophisticated. Hybrid hair styling & care products now give a gradual smoothing effect too. Some hybrid products are also going cross category. We particularly like the serum that can be used on the scalp & the face.

© 2018 - Brazil Beauty News - www.brazilbeautynews.com

about Emmanuelle Bassmann

Emmanuelle Bassmann is one of the leading beauty trend experts for Europe, North America and South America. She is based in London. She has devoted her career to interview beauty experts all over the world. She is an expert in digging into new market possibilities for worldwide clients like L’Oréal, Henkel, Chanel, Coty, LVMH, Merck, Bioderma and Unilever.

In-Trend Ltd

In-Trend only specializes in beauty related markets: skincare, makeup, body care, haircare, aesthetic medicine and oral care.
1- In-Trend has been around for more than a decade
2- In-Trend has spotted multitudes of beauty trends with proven commercial value, giving the world’s best companies invaluable power in their trend decision making.

www.in-trend-ltd.com

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Experts’ views
Is Brazil the new Korea for hair?

Emmanuelle Bassmann
Is Brazil the new Korea for hair?

International Beauty Fair, South America’s largest trade beauty show, took place on September 08-11, 2018 in Sao Paolo, Brazil. Here is a short overview on the main trends that emerged during the event. Brazil has always been renowned for being innovative in the beauty sector. Historically, the beauty industry in Brazil accelerates (...)

read more

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