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Ingredients & formulation

Inspired by drones, new technology encapsulates ingredients and make cosmetics more efficient

The system ensures deep penetration of ingredients with low absorption rates, allowing them to be delivered directly to the targeted area.

Mika Yamaguchi, scientific director at Biotec Dermocosméticos

Mika Yamaguchi, scientific director at Biotec Dermocosméticos

Topical cosmetics that reach their target precisely and are able to meet consumers’ expectations. That is the goal of the so-called “drone delivery”, a new active ingredient encapsulation and delivery system that is slowly making strides in Brazil’s beauty industry. Inspired by drones - which are small unmanned, remote-controlled aerial vehicles - this new technology enables ingredients with low absorption rates to be delivered directly to the targeted area, thus yielding better results.

Our own skin can compromise the performance of cosmetics,” says Dr. Paola Pomerantzeff, a dermatologist and member of Brazilian Society of Dermatology. According to her, different kinds of microbes, bacteria, fats and dead protein form a thick physical barrier over our skin, making it harder for certain compounds contained in cosmetics to penetrate it or even blocking their absorption altogether.

Usually, when using lotions and creams, their active ingredients gradually lose their efficacy until they reach the cell they are targeting, especially if it is located in a deeper layer of skin,” says Mika Yamaguchi, a pharmacist and scientific director at Biotec Dermocosméticos, which is part of the AQIA Química Industrial group.

This Brazilian company has recently debuted its first drone cosmetic, called Pro Lipo Neo on the Brazilian market. “This liposome technology uses phospholipids that bind themselves to the keratin found on the skin’s outer layer, covering it with a lipid layer, thus reducing transepidermal water loss and enhancing this barrier’s efficacy,” explains Yamaguchi. “As for the phospholipids that are still loose, they are introduced into the skin’s inner layers, where they can be captured by cell membranes. This way, these liposomes are able to increase permeability and boost the integrity of this protective layer over the skin.

Pro Lipo Neo was developed to combat hair loss. It delivers Minoxidil - an ingredient that prevents hair loss - through the scalp, allowing it to reach its exact target. According to Biotech, this in turn ensures a more effective treatment, as well as a more controlled and direct release of the product, preventing skin irritation.

Pro Lipo Neo is Biotec's first drone cosmetic

Pro Lipo Neo is Biotec’s first drone cosmetic

According to Yamaguchi, this technology - which is already used by some European companies - makes it possible to use smaller amounts of active ingredients, thus mitigating potential negative side effects. She also says that, in addition to Minoxidil, the new delivery system can be used in other types of hair care cosmetics for topical use, as well as for delivering other ingredients that are commonly used in body and facial care products, such as Vitamin C and retinoic acid.

Dr. Pomerantzeff explains that this kind of technology is better for anti-aging and anti-dark spot cosmetics, because products used to moisturize the skin must act on a more superficial level, meaning there would be no need for such a streamlined delivery.

Retinol, for instance, is a highly effective ingredient, but which may cause irritation when used in higher doses. Really sensitive skin may not tolerate it well, frequently causing customers to give up treatment courses that use this ingredient,” she says. “When using a drone delivery system, instead of opening up the epidermis, the encapsulated retinol is able to traverse the skin and deliver its anti-aging properties to deeper skin layers without causing discomfort such as redness, itching and swelling,” says Dr. Pomerantzeff.

Renata Martins

© 2019 - Brazil Beauty News - www.brazilbeautynews.com

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