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Ingredients & formulation

Naturex launches Sapnov, a natural and soothing surfactant

With Sapnov, a natural foaming agent extracted from quillaia in Chile and introduced at the latest in-cosmetics show in Barcelona, Naturex aims at opening up to new market opportunities for the beauty and personal care industry.

A few months after having entirely rebuilt its plant in Chile (the former production of Chile Botanics, acquired in January 2014) and increased its production capabilities by 10, Naturex is launching Sapnov, a 100% water-extracted natural surfactant derived from quillaia (Quillaja saponaria), an evergreen tree native from Chile.

This ingredient meets the demand for both sulphate-free, mild surfactants and biodegradable ingredients in finished products,” explains Stéphanie Puel, Business Unit Director for Personal Care.

More than just natural foaming

A non-ionic and water-soluble surfactant, Sapnov performs well versus synthetic surfactants such as sodium laureth sulphate (SLS), claims Naturex. Sapnov is miscible with classical solvents, works in a wide range of pH and shows good stability even at high salt concentrations.

Besides the fact that this foaming agent is 100% natural, the extract has other proven benefits that cannot be found in common surfactants. Indeed, various studies have shown that quillaia extracts have soothing and dermo-purifying properties. Tested in ex-vivo oral epithelium, Sapnov decreased the expression of interleukin 8 by 52% (interleukin 8 is a well-known marker of inflammation).

To showcase the various possibilities of Sapnov, the company has developed several applications that were presented at Naturex’s booth at in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona: cleaning products for blemish-prone and sensitive skins, sulfate-free soothing shower gel and scalp soothing shampoo, baby wipes and natural toothpaste.

Sustainable ingredient

Since the acquisition of Chile Botanics, Naturex has been working with the local team to upgrade the quillaia extraction and purification facilities, which are based close to quillaia harvesting areas in the south of Chile. This enables the group to offer consistently high quality, COSMOS approved extracts every time, produced sustainably from an abundant source. Indeed, the quillaia is sourced from a 8,000 km2 forest, which is sustainably managed. The resource is strictly controlled by the Chilean National Forest Corporation (Corporación Nacional Forestal, CONAF), which regulates the quillaia harvest.

A key asset for the future if we consider that according to Euromonitor International, non-ionic surfactants are expected to enjoy one of the strongest CAGRs in shampoos between 2013 and 20181.

V.G.

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