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Ingredients & formulation

Microbioma, epigenetics and botanical actives: The main personal care trends

Changes in consumers’ behaviours and expectations regarding personal care products point the trends the cosmetics industry has to monitor to forecast which types of products will be in demand in the future. The main ally of manufacturers to meet these needs is science, an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the production of solutions that enable laboratories to create tomorrow’s actives. We identified and can list three important trends for cosmetics in the coming years: the microbiome, epigenetics and products of plant origin, extracted from nature.

Renata Oki, South America Personal Care manager at BASF

Renata Oki, South America Personal Care manager at BASF

Microbiome-focused cosmetics that promote benefits through synergy with the skin microflora are among the most promising trends. Research seeks to better understand the role of each microorganism in the beauty of the skin to study the effects of active ingredients. For example, we already have an active ingredient that stimulates the synthesis of lipids in the epidermis and rebalances the skin’s ecosystem, helping it to recover and reactivate its barriers, the strengthening its defence and correcting dryness. The product was developed based on in vivo results on microbiota.

Epigenetics is a recent and innovative science, which began to gain strength on the ground of the human genome study and sequencing. It takes into account how environment and lifestyle - such as stress, diet, exposure to pollution, among other factors - impact on gene expression in our DNA. The actives developed with this focus can act through mechanisms that involve DNA or microRNA, inhibiting the change in genes and reversing damages. Products using this technology can already, for example, significantly improve the density and firmness of the skin.

The use of products with natural actives is not new, but they are now based on higher technologies that boost their ability to take full advantage of all the benefits of the many natural resources. New extraction platforms and methods allow us to get renewable raw materials and ingredients, through sustainable processes that ensure environmental preservation, as well as better effectiveness of the actives. For example, we have developed, a Moringa seed extract, the "miracle tree", which protects the skin against pollution, exposure to heavy metals, free radicals and oxidative stress, and facilitates cleaning and purification of the skin and hair.

All these actives contribute to the development of characteristics that create the properties and effectiveness of the final products, determining the possible cosmetic "claims": whether it is an anti-wrinkle, or it reduces oiliness, improves brightness, finally, what benefits are part of the final product. Science has helped us to improve effectiveness, develop solutions, and, above all, to more effectively meet the needs of people with their personal care.

Renata Oki, manager of BASF’s Personal Care in South America

© 2018 - Brazil Beauty News - www.brazilbeautynews.com

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