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Markets & trends

MakeUp in SaoPaulo puts the spotlights on innovation

MakeUp in SaoPaulo, the B2B tradeshow dedicated to the makeup industry, opened its doors on December 7-8 at the Centro de Convenções Rebouças in São Paulo. With a number of visitors over the two days almost equivalent to the previous edition, the show once again made the demonstration of the high interest of Brazilian operators for makeup innovation.

In a context characterized by the recession of the Brazilian economy with a strong attention to prices, all eyes were on the show’s famous "Innovation Tree," which unveiled a selection of the most cutting-edge new products.

Among these innovations we selected:

- Alkos’s new ’Single Twins Eyebrows’ product, a double-ended pencil featuring one end for drawing and definition, and another to fill, set and highlight eyebrows and ensure they stay in place all day, to address the full brows trend that has been on air for some time now.
- ’Miracle Sensation Purple,’ a highly pigmented pen eyeliner in a striking purple shade designed by Schwan Cosmetics. According to the manufacturer it lasts for 8 hours or longer. The liner is water-resistant, free from parabens, and dries to a matte finish.
- Faber-Castell’s latest invention, a magnetic lipliner made using a gel-like formula for an extra-smooth finish. The liner, which comes in highly pigmented color variations, is soft and creamy when applied, but hardens into a ’magnetic’ finish that lasts for 8 hours after less than a minute.
- While bold lips have been on trend for some time, lipsticks manufacturer Weckerle has been working on an alternative — the transparent ’Ph-Antastic Lipstick’. The product reacts with the skin’s pH levels upon application, forming a custom shade in a crystalline high-shine finish.
- As far as packaging is concerned, Qualipac has come up with a solution to the problem of fiddly packages, such as mascara, eyeliners and lip gloss tubes. Its new product ’One Touch’ offers a simple press-and-release mechanism that can be custom designed with multiple materials and shapes.

A strong potential for growth

While the Brazilian cosmetics market has proved particularly resilient in the economic crisis that has hit the country since 2014, competition in this market has steadily increased. The positions of the main players were reshuffled. Natura’s market share thus dropped from 14.9% in 2010 to 11.1% in 2015. Simultaneously, the Boticário Group, the other Brazilian cosmetics giant, recorded a rise of its market share from 6.9% in 2010 to 10.9% in 2015.

"The Boticário Group has been able to anticipate changes in Brazilian consumption habits and transform its businesses into a multichannel model," explains Valeria Grossmann, General Director of design agency Centdegrés in Brazil.

In such a context, the participants in MakeUp in SaoPaulo insisted on the key role of innovation to boost the growth of beauty brands. For instance, Arcade Beauty and Adhespack, two specialists in sampling and single-use packaging, highlighted the huge potential of samples in an increasingly digitized market.

According to Daniel Fernandes de Oliveira, Business Intelligence Manager at ABIHPEC, the Brazilian association for the personal care industry, makeup is probably the category with the greatest growth potential in Brazil. The country accounts for 50% of cosmetics sales in Latin America, but only for 42% of the makeup consumption. "For several years, Brazilian cosmetics players have demonstrated their ability to innovate while containing the rise of prices," he said. This perfectly matches with the expectations of Brazilian consumers whose great interest in cosmetic products seems to be hampered only by the limitation of their purchasing power.

V.G. et AFP/Relaxnews

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