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Juliette Faliu

How do we talk about perfume in 2016 ?

Reading a thematic article on perfume in a magazine, listening to an advisor’s recommendations on how to apply fragrance, or reviewing perfume critics on specialized websites: these three elements make up part of the accessible information on perfume today. Both the content and form used to address this issue determine our perception of this product, as well as our consideration, or even our interest in perfume.

© David Tadevosian / shutterstock.com

© David Tadevosian / shutterstock.com

Despite the emergence of niche perfumery, on the one hand, which is considered as non-conventional, and of well-informed perfume lovers, on the other, most perfume brands, in particular in the selective segment, cannot seem to manage to get off the beaten track and get more substance in their communication strategy. Indeed, their arguments often remain limited to a level that does not really represent, not only the complexity and depth of an olfactory creation, but also the aesthetic experience it can actually provide perfume wearers. This is all the more so, since customers usually strongly appreciate rich and stimulating descriptions, when they have access to them. The problem is, the contents made available on brands websites or press releases still mostly focus on lists of raw materials to legitimate a product’s value, and on generic, stereotyped portraits of men or women to whom customers identify – or not. Still, this low level of arguments seems to have reached its own limits, as new consumer generations increasingly reject generalization and search for authentic experiences with the products they consume.

However, we should not pretend everything used to be better, as we usually do in this type of situation: perfume ad campaigns have always been marked by the strong use of stereotypes and fantasized images. In 1985, a press release for a new fragrance read: ‘This perfume evokes all the sensuality and ardour of a woman that gives herself to her own passion. It creates the myth of a woman that devotes herself to a love obsession and invites a man to do the same.’ This type of message could definitely have been written in 2016. Except that in 1985, perfumes were still sold in areas where advice played a more significant role, and where the customer relationship was perceived and experienced as less venal than it is today. In addition, advice remained one of the only forms of education to perfume for a long time. Starting from the 1990s though, the advent of self-service perfumery destroyed the model that had long defined perfume selling and favoured arguments that have not much evolved since. Since these arguments now fail to make consumers understand why they need to pay almost €70 for a perfume bottle (50ml), brands are now focusing on the re-enchantment of the customer relationship and on how to give value to perfumes.

Talking about this, giving more value to perfumes cannot only mean increasing prices. It also requires perfume creators to set up a new communication strategy. If the difficulties to make this meaning tangible with words are real, certain brands are coping better and better with them, in particular in niche perfumery, as they have understood transparency rhymes with trust – values much cherished by consumers today. Brands like Nomenclature, which highlights major synthetic molecules, or Parle Moi de Parfum, which shows the public what a laboratory looks like, intend to unveil the other side of the picture and take apart a few clichés on perfume. This approach might eventually prove profitable to all, both professionals and consumers: by generating more interesting and animated debates, brands can give more substance to their products and be better prepared to show their singularity, compared to their competitors. At the end of the day, this could have a positive impact on creativity, a notion much wanted on both sides.

Juliette Faliu

© 2016 - Brazil Beauty News - www.brazilbeautynews.com

about Juliette Faliu

After graduating from the École Supérieure de Commerce business school of Toulouse, France, Juliette Faliu launched many innovative initiatives in the field of perfumery. In 2006, she created the first French-speaking blog on perfumes: Poivre Bleu, which has become Le Nez Bavard since then.

In 2011, she became the co-founder and President of L’Olfactorama, an association aiming to “Reveal the best in perfumery”. Every year, the awards attributed by L’Olfactorama are intended to refocus communication on olfaction and reward both selective and rare perfumes.

Thanks to a regular practise of olfaction in the past ten years, Juliette Faliu has acquired excellent knowledge in the history of perfumery, its players, and its market. She has gradually developed an olfactory assessment method to evaluate the quality of a perfume according to objective and defined criteria.

In 2014, Juliette created the concept of olfactory meetings for all people interested, amateurs, and enthusiasts with the support of Nez Bavard.

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