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Markets & trends

As the world’s largest market for fragrances, Brazil gathers perfumery microtrends

Fragrance expert Alessandra Tucci says the expansion and maturation of the fragrance market in Brazil require a more diverse distribution network and broad access to information to attract customers eager for novelty.

Alessandra Tucci, fragrance expert and founding partner at Perfumaria (...)

Alessandra Tucci, fragrance expert and founding partner at Perfumaria Paralela

The quest for new trends is what guides Brazilians’ behavior in the fragrance scene. Brazil has been the world’s largest fragrance market since 2010, according to data from Euromonitor, and it is characterized by the coexistence of different styles and microtrends. “The speed that marks the current consumer society makes it challenging to predict trends,” says Alessandra Tucci, fragrance expert and founder of Perfumaria Paralela, a company that specializes in innovation and strategy for the fragrance industry.

She says Brazilians have a very particular relationship to perfumes compared to North Americans and Asians. “Our culture perceives fragrances as a sign of personal care, beauty, enhanced self-esteem and even sensuality. While Asians are more reserved and perfume can be seen as invasive in some cases, in Brazil it is always welcome, as long as it is used with common sense.

Some trends become more popular than others depending on the consumer profile, she says. "The trends in Brazil are aligned to Europe and the U.S., with a strong focus on fresh, floral aromas and scents enriched with fruit notes, as they are more casual and easy to please.

There is also a move towards gourmand fragrances, with sweetish, statement scents that consist primarily of edible notes such as vanilla, nougat, praline, meringue, coffee and chocolate. Tucci says they have been incorporated into perfumes over the last few years and have become a favorite among men and women of all generations. “Vanilla scents have been completely integrated into male fragrances, as well as florals and fruits. This has contributed to bridge the gap between traditional gender-specific fragrances.” She says ingredients that were hardly ever found in this context, such as fragrant herbs with warm woods, bitter chocolate notes, and the contrast between mint and fig are now used in men’s fragrances, which are equally popular among female customers.

Inside Perfumaria Paralela

Inside Perfumaria Paralela

The generational aspect also has an influence on consumer perception. The striking and austere notes of the chypre family, for example, have been reinterpreted to appeal to the tastes of the modern consumer. Made from the combination of oak moss, florals, citrus fruits and patchouli, they have become more fruity, with less moss notes and a hint of gourmand chords. "This has resulted in more sophisticated perfumes, with elegant, long-lasting and modern scents", says Tucci.

With a wide range of goals and results, fragrances undergo different development processes, but they always start from an inspiration, an idea, a desire or a brief. “The perfumer translates the original concept into a product, taking into consideration the brand, the target consumer and the price positioning,” says Tucci. Sophistication has been a challenge for Brazil, which in 2013 had only 7% its fragrance-spend going on premium fragrances, according to a study conducted by Swiss fragrance house Givaudan.

When it comes to trends, Tucci points out a new way to wear signature scents – fragrance layering. Combining different fragrances is a common practice among connoisseurs and has been gaining popularity with consumers. “Some companies use fragrance layering as their foundation, such as Jo Malone, which has recently opened its first store in Brazil. The brand encourages mixing and matching scents to create a truly unique scent.

Tucci also highlights the quick maturation of the Brazilian fragrance market, which has seen an increased demand and more discerning customers eager for novelty. However, she argues that it is necessary to facilitate access to unique products. “In my point of view, a mature market requires a diverse distribution network and broad access to information. But we are on that path."

Amanda Veloso

© 2016 - Brazil Beauty News - www.brazilbeautynews.com

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