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Packaging & design

Aptar deciphers the fragrance gesture

Aptar Beauty + Home, global leader in distribution systems for the perfumery industry, intends to help brands study the sensoriality associated with the fragrance gesture and way to wear perfume. To this aim, the group conducted a survey among different consumer panels in France, the Middle East, Brazil, China, and Korea, and listed a thousand and one perfuming gestures in a “Codex des gestuelles” (a glossary on fragrance gestures).

At Aptar, we believe the usual spraying gesture should not be treated as ordinary. Perfumes should be appropriately presented,” claims Sabine Bouillet-Lubot, Strategic Marketing Manager Fragrance at Aptar. “And the industry would actually take advantage from the development of the sensorial aspect in this field.

That is how the “Codex des gestuelles” was born: this reference glossary is aimed to translate into words the evolution and mode of application of perfumes, as well as the possible solutions developed by Aptar, from the mere spraying gesture to the most sophisticated movements applied to alternative formulas.

The survey mainly shows that the way we wear our perfume does not only depend on our culture or climate, but on many other parameters like personality, circumstances, or sex…

Each to his own spray

The gesture of spraying perfume is, and will certainly remain the most common mode of application for the most pragmatic of us. Still, it can be modified in different ways. In the category of standard sprays, the Codex suggests the term “débrumer” (≈ demistify) to refer to the “action of vigorously tapping one’s face with perfume during the morning routine to get rid of the early sleepiness feeling.” This version is often very masculine, just like its alternative consisting in spraying the chest, since it conveys an idea of power.

The gesture of “ennuager” (≈ clouding over), or transforming the fragrance into a cloud to better plunge into it and get wholly soaked with it, is more sophisticated. This gesture is used all over the world and often popular among women with a seductive profile, as well as men in Brazil and the Middle East, who like wearing a generous quantity of perfume. Aptar meets this “long time spray” expectation with the Precious solution for a mist effect and a diffusion that lasts three times longer than with a standard spray for the same perfume dose. It is available in several versions (Precious, Petite&Precious, Precious 140 mcl).

A desire for new experiences

There are several application and/or texture alternatives to the gesture of spraying a juice on an alcohol base. “There is a demand for new experiences. To redynamize the market, we need to think of alternatives, of the diversity of gestures associated with formulas other than alcohol bases, like gels, oils, waxes, or even powders,” Sabine Bouillet-Lubot explains.

Among these alternatives, there is the touch application, which is translated as follows in the Codex: “Déliprécis” (≈ deliprecise) refers to someone who delicately targets specific points like the back of their ears, their necks, wrists, crooks of the elbows…

Aptar contributed to developing this mode of application with Note, an applicator which gets automatically filled with perfume and lays down its content by capillary action when it comes in contact with the skin. Note is suitable for eaux de parfum, absolutes, and perfume concentrates, but it can also adapt to oily formulas.

Other gestures have been observed, like the one called “Smellfie”, which consists in smelling one’s wrist soaked with perfume. As a result, Aptar devised a bulb atomizer, Eternelle, and other hand games, caresses, rubbing movements or gentle slaps, in particular in Brazil, with light waters.

With this exclusive approach, Aptar aims to awaken senses about the fragrance gesture to convince brands of the importance of thinking about the packaging upstream the product creation. “Brands are keen to hear about consumer expectations. They are starting to grow aware of this,” Sabine Bouillet-Lubot concludes.

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